How to Clean Waders

The short routine

Most wader care comes down to four habits: rinse, wash occasionally, dry fully, store dry. Both Simms and Orvis put the drying step at the center. Orvis says storing waders damp promotes bacteria and mold, which can cause premature failure. Simms goes further and calls mildew the top reason waders come back for repair, adding that once it develops it cannot be removed.

That is the whole argument for this page. The rest is detail on each step and on where the makers disagree. When a maker's wording and a forum post conflict, I go with the maker, and when two makers conflict, I tell you and send you to the care label on your pair. A waders purchase comes with a label for a reason.

Rinse after every trip

Rinse waders with fresh water after every outing and before storing them. Orvis suggests a hose to remove mud and debris. Both makers single out saltwater: salt can damage the fabric and the hardware, so rinse it off the same day you can.

Washing: how often and with what

You do not wash waders after every trip. Simms says to wash annually, twice a year or three times a year depending on how often you use them. Orvis says to clean periodically to slow bacteria and mold growth.

What to wash with is where the two makers differ, so here is each in its own words, summarized.

Simms (hand washing):

• Zip the front and the pockets and fasten the suspender buckles first.
• Use warm water only, up to 105°F (40°C).
• Use a small amount of liquid detergent or a technical wash such as Nikwax or Granger.
• Avoid powder detergent, fabric softener, stain remover and bleach.
• Wash the waders alone and rinse twice.

Orvis (machine-washable and non-washable):

• Stockingfoot styles are machine washable. Use a powdered detergent without additives, or a liquid detergent made for synthetic, breathable fabrics. Avoid fabric softener and color-safe bleach. Orvis names Ivory Snow, ReviveX Synthetic Fabric Cleaner and Nikwax Tech Wash.
• Bootfoot styles are not machine washable. Orvis points to Granger's G-Wash spray cleaner.
• Follow the cleaning product's instructions and the garment's care label.

Notice the powder detergent: Orvis allows it, Simms lists it among things to avoid. That is a good example of why one rule for all waders does not exist. If your waders came from a maker other than these two, read their page. Fabric softener and bleach are on the avoid list for both, so that part is safe to carry across.

Spot cleaning, zippers and the feet

If your waders are not machine washable, or you only need to remove mud, the Orvis UK care page describes a gentler method. Turn the waders inside out and remove dirt and debris, paying attention to the foot area. Rub the inner fabric with a soft sponge or cloth and warm water. Empty the pockets, then clean the outside the same way once the inside has dried.

Zippers get their own step. Orvis UK suggests cleaning a zipper, inside and outside, with washing liquid and a toothbrush, because dirt and salt left in the teeth can harden and damage it. If you have waders with a front zipper, that is five minutes well spent.

How to clean neoprene waders

The care pages I opened do not give a separate wash procedure for neoprene, so I will not invent one. What they do say applies directly to neoprene feet and neoprene waders:

• Orvis says to use a changing mat so the neoprene booties do not touch bare ground, and not to walk around in the booties alone, because rocks and gravel can damage the neoprene.
• Simms says to put your boots on right after stepping into the waders, for the same reason.
• Orvis says bootfoot styles are not machine washable, so check the label before any wash.

For the wash itself, rinse with fresh water, clean the surface with a soft cloth and mild product that the label allows, and dry fully. If you are choosing between materials, our breathable vs neoprene waders guide covers the trade-offs.

How to wash breathable waders

Breathable waders are the ones the machine-wash instructions are written for. Follow the maker's steps above, and add one more: restore the water repellency when the surface stops beading water. Simms says to reactivate the DWR (the durable water repellent finish on the outside) by tumble drying fully dried waders on low heat for another 20 minutes, and if that does not work, to reapply a pump spray or wash-in product following that product's instructions. Orvis says that for a clean garment you can use a cool iron or tumble dry on low to medium heat, and to reapply with Nikwax TX-Direct or McNett ReviveX spray-on repellent if needed.

Repellency is separate from waterproofing. The membrane does the keeping out of water. The coating on the surface keeps the fabric from soaking up water and feeling heavy. When water stops beading, the waders are not leaking, but they will feel wet and clammy, and that is when you wash and reactivate.

Drying: the step that matters most

Both makers agree on the basics:

• Dry the waders completely, inside and out, before storing them.
• Pick a spot with good airflow and out of direct sunlight. Orvis notes that prolonged UV exposure damages wader fabric and that a basement or garage is not always the best choice. Simms adds a fan when the air is humid.
• Turn the waders inside out once the outside is dry, so the inside can finish.

The order differs a little. Orvis US says to dry the outside first and then the inside. The Orvis UK page says to make sure the inside is fully dry before you start on the outside, and to use the drying time to look for tears or abrasions that could become leaks. Both end in the same place: bone dry before storage.

Can you put waders in the dryer?

This is the question where I would not trust a forum answer. Simms says that after washing you can tumble dry on a low, gentle or delicate setting, keeping temperatures under 125°F (52°C), or hang them to dry. The Orvis pages I opened say to dry waders in a ventilated place, and use tumble drying only to refresh water repellency.

If the care label on your pair says no machine drying, believe it. If the label is silent, hanging them is always the safe option, and Simms is clear that the drying temperature should stay low. (The seam tape inside your waders has not signed up for a sauna. Gary put his on a radiator once. The Seam was delighted.)

How to dry wading boots

Boots get their own routine. Simms says to clean, drain and dry boots before storage, which also helps prevent the spread of aquatic invasive species and whirling disease. It also says to wear the boots periodically and keep them dry, because hydrolysis and dry rot can degrade the rubber sole, and that dry rot and hydrolysis are not covered under its warranty. If you move between waters, that cleaning step is not optional. Our wading boots page covers sole types.

Gear that makes this easier

• A changing mat or wader bag keeps neoprene booties off the ground.
• A technical wash made for waterproof-breathable gear, which the makers name above.
• A repair kit for pinholes you spot while drying. See wader repair kits, and our guide to finding a leak in waders when you are not sure where the water is getting in.
• A hanger or a wader rack for drying, though note that Orvis UK drapes breathable waders over a hanger while Orvis US and Simms say to roll them for storage. Our how to store waders guide sorts that out.

Fish don't read spec sheets. You should, and the care label is the spec sheet nobody opens.

Warranty note

Care also touches coverage. Simms says in its care page that DIY repairs, including pinhole patching, can affect your warranty, and that dry rot and hydrolysis are not covered. Before you put a patch on an expensive pair, read the maker's warranty wording.